The Old Bordenian Association

This is a guest post by Tim Ford

It all started at a friend’s 50th birthday celebrations in 2007, when Jay asked me how I intended to mark my own rapidly approaching half-century. ‘Oh, I think I’ll do the “Raid Pyrénéen”’, I said without too much thought. To be fair, I’d had this ride in the back of my mind for a number of years but there always seemed to be other things that needed doing first. But now I’d said I would do it!

A word or two of explanation – the idea of the Raid Pyrénéen is to cycle from Hendaye at the Atlantic end of the Pyrenees to Cerbere on the Mediterranean coast (or vice versa) in less than 100 hours. A total distance of 720 km plus the small matter of 18 cols to climb over, totalling 11,000 m in height gained. But what goes up must come down, I told myself, trying to make it sound a little bit easier.

Fast forward to June, 2008, and I’m tinkering with the bike on a campsite in Hendaye. I’ve planned my route, the maps are marked up, the official frame number from the Cyclo Club Bearnais (the organisers of the Raid) is attached to the bike so I suppose I’m about ready! The only thing that is worrying me is the weather. The previous night there had been a massive thunder storm which flooded the middle of our tent to about three inches deep! What would it be like in the heart of the mountains? Other cyclists at home had told me that there was still a chance of late snow storms at this time of year. Would this wreck all of my planning and training? I’d just have to wait and see.

Friday 13th June

Planned distance 180km, several small climbs and one major col.

Having obtained a rubber stamp on my ‘carnet de route’ from the campsite office, I was off just after eight, only marginally later than planned. The first part should be easy, as we’d recce’d it in the car a couple of days before. Despite this I nearly persuaded myself to turn right instead of left at the first T junction. I’m not very good at early mornings! Disaster averted, I soon settled into the ride and arrived at the first small climb, the Col St Ignace (157m) at the same time as the rain. On with the waterproof, which rapidly proved to be about as waterproof as a colander. Never mind, I thought, I’ll persuade Jay to lend me hers after today. Jay was providing ‘back-up’ in the car, making tea and sandwiches at pre-arranged stops (and some unplanned ones) as well as finding hotels each night. The rain stayed with me over the next small Col (Pinodeita, 176m) until the first control point at Espelette, where I had to find a rubber stamp. Spotting a Chemist as I entered the town, I thought I’d try there. No problem! I was back on the road with my card stamped in less than five minutes. Next stop was planned as St. Jean Pied–de–Port for lunch, 40 km away. I made good time and arrived to find no sign of Jay. A phone call revealed she was still 15 minutes away, so I gently kicked my heels until she arrived. Lunch over, it’s back on the road heading for the Col d’Osquich (500m). Although not a big climb, it’s still eight kilometres of uphill at an average of about 4%. There are signs every kilometre telling you how high you are, how far to the summit and the average gradient of the next kilometre. Sometimes it’s better not to know! Once over the top, it’s time to concentrate on the map for a while, get another control stamp at Tardets-Sorholus and then find out that I’ve got ahead of Jay again. Nothing better to do than carry on for a bit until she overtakes and I can have the cakes that caused her to get behind me! There’s only about 40km left to ride today, but that includes the Col de Marie Blanque. All too soon I’m studying the profile sign at the bottom and again wondering if it’s best not to know! The first part of the climb is quite easy, but it gradually gets steeper and steeper. The rain returned just as I set off, and with it the temperature dropped. Half way up and I was struggling. I was cold and suffering from serious cramp. Things didn’t improve and by the time I reached the top I was a seriously unhappy cyclist. It was cold, wet, windy and just into the cloud base. A quick photo at the summit sign, on with all the clothes I had and I started rolling downhill, telling myself that there would be a nice warm, dry hotel with a hot shower not far away. It was probably one of the most miserable descents I have ever made, but fortunately it’s not only good things that come to an end! After a shower and a nice meal, which included the best vegetable soup either of us had ever had, things seemed a little rosier.

Statistics for the day:

186km, total time 10 ½ hrs, average speed 22.3kph, 2940m total ascent, at an average of 4% and maximum16%.

Not bad for Friday the 13th!

Saturday 14th June

Planned distance 157km, four major climbs.

After a quick stroll around the corner for breakfast, I was out of the hotel and on the road just after eight. This was still a little later than planned, but earlier than yesterday, so no complaints. After a few minutes negotiating the quiet streets of the town the road started upwards. A quick pause to study the profile sign for the Col d’Aubisque told me I had to climb 1,190m over 16 ½ km to reach the top at 1,709m. At least the gradient didn’t look too bad, so nothing to do but grind away in a low gear! Eventually the summit arrived, complete with a welcome café for a coffee and control stamp. Part way down the descent there’s a small climb to cross the Col de Soulor, then it’s down again all the way to Argeles-Gazost, and a right turn into the Gorge de Luz. Somehow I missed the turn and ended up studying the map trying to work out where I was. Fortunately there’s a road parallel to the one I wanted, but on the opposite side of the river. Eventually I rejoined the right road and made good time to the bottom of the Col de Tourmalet. This is the highest Col of the trip at 2115m, but not the longest – that comes near the end – but still 19km. It’s a pleasant day, mostly sunny with a few clouds to provide a little shade now and again. The scenery is absolutely stunning. It’s quite unlike anything I’ve seen before, and attempts to photograph it don’t seem to do it justice. I can’t spend too much time admiring the views, though, as there’s still a long way to go today. Slowly I work my way up the climb, watching other cyclists pass but rarely passing anyone myself! There are a lot of people out today, all on shiny, lightweight machines and seemingly using a lot less effort than I am. Ho hum. Must be because I’m heavier than they are. And I’m carrying a saddlebag with all my emergency bits and bobs in it. Extra weight helps on the down-hills, I tell myself! It must be true, as I very rarely get passed by these same riders on the descents. About two thirds of the way up, cramp starts to threaten again and I have to adopt a strategy of walking a short distance every now and again to ward it off. It works, and finally I turn the corner at the top, only to turn straight round and get back to the sunny side. There’s a wind blowing up the other side and it’s fifteen degrees colder than the side I’ve just come up. Another ontrol stamp, a quick cup of tea from Jay and on with hat, gloves, coat and leg-warmers for the descent. Just after the first hairpin is a large snowdrift that has been cut through to open the road – a reminder that it’s still quite early spring here. I have two strong memories of the descent, both involving the ski resort of La Mongie. The first was how incredibly ugly the new development is and the second was a string of rider-less horses crossing the road just below the town. Fortunately my brakes were in good order! All too soon the road starts to go upwards again and I notice something strange. My ‘internal spirit level’ has gone completely hay-wire. Usually, I can judge a gradient fairly well, but now what seems to be flat to me is actually two or three percent uphill! Consequently I get rather frustrated when I feel I ought to be free-wheeling but am actually having to pedal. Back to reality and it’s nearly five o’clock. I’m well behind schedule and with 60km and two big climbs to go I decide to cut today’s stage short. I’m climbing far slower than I’d bargained for, even without the spells of walking, so the next Col (Aspin, 1489m) will be the last one today. I’m rather bemused when I reach the top of the Col, as there are two summit signs, one claiming 1489m and another about 20m further along claiming 1490m. Maybe it’s a young mountain and still growing? There’s another beautiful view here, with the sun shining on flowering gorse and the road clearly visible all the way down into the valley. Worth the climb to see it! Very soon, I’m in the lovely little town of Arreau, a room is ours and – most importantly for a cyclist – dinner is being eaten!

Statistics for the day:

130km, total time 10 ½ hrs, average speed 16.4kph, 3715m total ascent, at an average of 6% and maximum14%.

Sunday 15th June

Planned distance 168km. Three major cols (including the one left-over from yesterday!)

Unlike yesterday, I’ve got a few kilometres of almost flat road before the climbing starts, so I feel a little more settled when I reach the bottom of the Col de Peyresourde. Even though it’s still quite early I seem to be going a bit better today – maybe I’m getting fitter! Once over the top there’s a nice long descent to Bagneres-de-Luchon and then a long flat main road to the next turn, where I meet up with Jay for early elevenses. After this the roads are smaller again as I head towards two smaller climbs before the Col de Portet d’Aspet, which I’m not looking forward to, as I’ve already seen the profile. There are a lot of local cyclists out again today, and as I’m passing through a small town one jumps up from his table outside a café, waving and shouting to me. I immediately assume it’s a secret control (there is supposed to be one of these ‘unknown’ controls somewhere along the route) so quickly turn round and start to rummage for my carnet. ‘No, no,’ he says, ‘It’s not a control!’ I wonder how he knows about controls for a moment, and then he explains. He recognised my Paris-Brest-Paris shirt, and wanted a chat, as he’d ridden PBP, too! This really stretches my French, as we go into details of weather, how hard the climbs are and how I’m doing before he wishes me ‘Bon route’ and waves me off again. I’m smiling to myself for a good few kilometres and before I know it am half way up the Portet d’Aspet. The last four kilometres of this climb are shown as being at least 9% on my profile, so I’m surprised to find myself at the top without much of a struggle. I must be getting fitter!! After lunch in a lay-by full of piles of road stone, it’s an easy ride on to St. Girons were I get another control stamp in a Tabac on the way into the town. Back on the road again I miss a signpost so have to wobble all the way round a large roundabout before finally spotting the right road. The section out of town was a bit depressing, with the road lined by factories, one of which I remember as making cigarette papers. Eventually, the buildings run out and the scenery becomes much more pleasing to the eye again. One more climb to tackle today, the Col de Port, which is a good steady gradient and ‘only’ 12km long, and then it’s down to Tarascon sur Ariege and the best room of the ride in a lovely Gite. We also had the best meal of the ride here, in a small pizza restaurant that only seemed to be open for a couple of hours each evening. I’d been thinking about pizza on the last descent, and was all ready to order one when I saw someone else’s steak and changed my mind. Jay had pizza, which was very good, but I didn’t regret my decision!

Statistics for the day:

170km, total time 11 hrs, average speed 20.6kph, 2881m total ascent, at an average of 4% and maximum16%.

Monday 16th June

Planned distance 140km. One big climb.

One big climb. An understatement, I think! The Col de Puymorens is actually the second highest of the trip, at 1,915m, but is the longest climb – 27km from Ax-les-Thermes to the summit. There are thirty kilometres to cover before the climbing starts, though, with only a very slight rise in the road, so I can settle down on the handlebars and churn away for a hour or so. Once through Ax, the traffic gets quite heavy as this is the road to Andorra. None of it is a problem, though, as Continental drivers treat cyclists much better than our home-bred motorists do. The climb itself is another steady gradient and I’m pleased to notice that I can use a higher gear than earlier in the ride. Eventually I pass the turning to Andorra and I have the road to myself for the last few kilometres to the top. Jay is waiting with the kettle hot and after a cuppa and a sandwich I roll off down the descent. What a descent – it seemed to go on and on! There was time to take in the view, too, as roadworks were being carried out most of the way down, with traffic lights every few kilometres. In between them my speed was restricted by being in a queue that had a rather slow cattle lorry at the front, so I had time to marvel at the way the road, the houses and even a railway clung to the side of the mountains. Impressive engineering!

Later on in the day there were a couple of small Cols, and I spotted another PBP shirt just before the top of the last of them. A cheery greeting helped me to the top, and then it was downhill towards the coast. The end felt close now! I was going really well at this point – up to 40kph on the flat, and in the sunshine, too. Jay found a couple of heavy showers further up the road but they had passed by the time I got there. I thoroughly enjoyed this section, through peach orchards and interesting little villages with the bonus of covering ground at a good rate. My original plan had been to stop in the town of Thuir, but it proved to be one of those places that seemed to send you round and round in circles. Very soon frustration set in and Plan B was formulated. I continued for another 10km to a junction with a dual carriageway where Jay picked me up and we nipped up the road to Perpignan and found a room in a B+B hotel. A very satisfying day, which saw not only the shortfall in distance made up but also a nice chunk of ‘tomorrows’ distance covered!

Statistics for the day:

180km, total time 11 hrs, average speed 22.8kph, 2225m total ascent, at an average of 3% and maximum11%.

Tuesday 17th June

Planned distance – 52km. No climbing!

Today started extremely well – breakfast started at six, so no need to eat on the road this morning, and as well as the usual croissants there was scrambled egg and bacon!! I was a little apprehensive about today as I had to arrive at Cerbere by 12.20 to complete the ride in the time allowed. It felt quite strange having to think about the time again. I was also a bit worried about the last section along the coast, as I remembered it as consisting of lots of ups and downs. I was on the road at 7.30, so had plenty of time in hand. Soon, however, I was reminded that if you have a good start it usually gets worse soon after! The first turn of the day proved to be a little elusive, and was only discovered after passing it, turning round, passing it again and taking a dead end before realising that the tiny street that looked like it went nowhere did in fact take me the right way! Soon I was out in the countryside again and crossing a river by means of what would have been a ford if there had been more water. There was a memorable sight here of a fisherman up to his waist in the mirror-flat river, surrounded by patches of mist. Worth being up early for! Not long after this I was back in a town again as I reached the coast and another problem. The route I had planned on the map was a busy dual carriageway – no bikes allowed! After a good deal of studying the map I noticed a tiny road wriggling around the section I was barred from. It was indeed a tiny road, just wide enough for me to squeeze past the tractors that were cutting the vegetation on either side of it! Despite having to climb another 250m, I enjoyed this diversion as I had the road completely to myself and could enjoy the scenery. Back on the main road again, and back to reality, I now had to press on as I was still concerned that the up-and-down road would slow me down too much. I needn’t have worried, as there was a useful breeze that seemed to be helping me along at almost every turn in the road. Just as I was trying to work out which headland I had just rounded, there was the Cerbere town sign and I was free-wheeling down to the sea front. Made it!! All that was needed now was a final stamp on the Carnet de Route and a beer. Both were found in the same place – a most satisfactory ending with over two hours to spare! Who was worried about time?

Statistics for the day:

51km, total time 2 ½ hrs, average speed 21.8kph, 661m total ascent, at an average of 4% and maximum 9%.

Overall, it was a thoroughly enjoyable ride, despite the bad bits on the first day. It was very hard work ( I was still 5lbs lighter a week later), but made a lot easier by having Jay as support, as I could just concentrate on riding the bike and not have to think about finding food and accommodation.